All About Eggs
Learn about nature's most perfect food and half a dozen recipes
Eggs have been called nature’s most perfect food. One egg has thirteen essential vitamins and minerals, high-quality protein, unsaturated fats, and antioxidants, all for about seventy-five calories. Egg nutrients can help you with weight control, muscle strength, eye health, brain function, and a healthy pregnancy. Eggs’ nutritional value should not be surprising when you remember that an egg contains everything needed for the nourishment of a developing chick.
Particularly important for aiding healthy brain function and pregnancy is choline, for which eggs are a good source. It’s estimated that more than 90 percent of Americans are choline deficient. A study of choline intake by Iowa State University researchers found that for older children, men, women, and pregnant women, intake is dramatically below adequate intake levels, with only 10 percent or less of all these groups getting even close to the recommended amount of choline.
In cooking, eggs are highly prized due to their food chemistry. They serve many unique functions in recipes, including coagulation, foaming, emulsification, and browning.
The history of the egg as food runs parallel with the history of people consuming chickens and other birds as food. Although it is uncertain when and where it began, the practice of raising chickens for food is ancient and so, subsequently, is the consumption of eggs, extending back to the times of early man.
Eggs have always been a symbol of fertility, and beliefs abound that reference their aphrodisiacal powers in many cultures. One of the most widely held food and holiday associations is that of the Easter egg. How the egg became associated with this holiday seems to have roots that are both biological and cultural. Before more modern techniques of poultry raising, hens laid few eggs during the winter. This meant that Easter, occurring with the advent of spring, coincided with the hens’ renewed cycle of laying numerous eggs. Additionally, because eggs were traditionally considered a food of luxury, they were forbidden during Lent, so Christians had to wait until Easter to eat them. Interestingly, the custom of painting eggshells has an extensive history and was a popular custom among many ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, Chinese, Greeks, and Persians.
FINDING THE RIGHT EGG
Conventional egg production in this country has a dark side. Most of the eggs we see in grocery stores today come from a hen that is confined inside a wire battery cage in which she can barely move. With something like sixty-eight square inches of space in which to live, she can’t even flap her wings, let alone build a nest, perch, dust bathe, or do the other things chickens naturally do.
Experts agree that battery cage confinement contributes to a number of welfare problems, and these concerns have prompted many European countries to ban this system of confinement altogether. Battery cages were banned in the European Union in 2012. Battery cages continue to dominate egg production in the United States, however, and the egg industry has unfortunately long ignored the allegations of cruelty to animals. But as a growing number of consumers discover the truth about modern egg production, the industry is changing.
Especially timely is Sonoma County’s measure J about factory farming. There is a lot of information pro and con that can influence your decisions about sourcing eggs. Be sure to do your research and familiarize yourself with the issues.
Among the things to look for when you buy eggs:
Despite the popular notion, the color of the eggshell is not related to the quality or nutritional value of the egg itself.
Organic: Chickens must be fed organic feed without animal byproducts and be “free range,” and the use of antibiotics is prohibited. The feed may or may not be processed organically. Read the label.
Cage-free: Instead of the cage system, chickens are kept in large poultry barns. The floor is open and the chickens can sometimes walk around the barn. There is no standard, however, for how much open space is required per bird or what types of antibiotics are administered. The hens are often de-beaked to prevent pecking. Oftentimes, the temperature and light in the barn is manipulated to mimic the seasons and force the birds into irregular production cycles.
Fertile: These are eggs that can be incubated and developed into chicks. Unfortunately, despite conventional wisdom, fertile eggs are not more nutritious than nonfertile eggs, do not keep as well as non-fertile eggs, and are more expensive to produce. Fertile eggs may contain a small amount of male hormone, but there are no known advantages.
Free-range: Chickens must have access to an outdoor space, which might be dirt, sand, or concrete. Producers who practice this method often have small doors in the coop that open out to a fenced yard.
Vegetarian-fed: Chickens are kept indoors because foraging for food outside might include bugs, which is not considered a vegetarian diet.
Omega-3 enhanced: The chickens are fed ground flaxseed, algae, or fish oil in combination with their feed to enhance the levels of omega-3s.
Day range pastured poultry and pasture pens: This doesn’t usually appear on the egg carton, but if it does, it means the chickens have a fenced pasture where they range during the day. At night, they are housed inside a permanent, or semi-permanent, coop with open floors. Pasture pens are outdoor movable shelters. They have no floors, so the chickens live right on the ground, and a cover protects them from too much sun and rain. The feed is a combination of pasture and commercial, organic, or other feed. Demand this for the eggs you consume. This is a good practice.
CHOLESTEROL AND EGGS
Back in the late 1970s, eggs came under fire from the food police and sales dramatically declined. Medical research linked high levels of cholesterol in the blood to increased risk of heart disease. Egg yolks, of course, are pretty high in cholesterol, and the conventional wisdom was that high cholesterol in food would result in high cholesterol in the blood. The egg white scramble and omelet were born! The conventional wisdom we know now was false. There is no direct link between the amount of cholesterol in food and that found in blood. Lots of studies have found that most people who are not genetically disposed to heart disease can eat eggs every day with no increased risk to their health. Research has shown, however, that blood cholesterol levels are affected by the amount of total fats, especially saturated fats, in the diet. In that scenario, eggs look a whole lot more benign. One egg has less than two grams of saturated fat, while a cup of whole milk has five grams and a tablespoon of butter seven grams. Eggs are a nutritious and inexpensive option that can be regularly consumed by most of us.
COOKING EGGS
There is lots of information and opinions out there about how to cook eggs. My simple recommendations are:
One of the most important things to remember is that eggs are a delicate protein and are best cooked at a lower temperature. Take your time, cook them slowly over low heat and they will turn out so tender and soft.
For eggs out of the shell, the overriding requirement is to cook them gently with moderate heat. They can become tough and unappealing if the heat is too high.
For perfect hard “boiled” eggs, steam them! Steaming ensures that you don’t overcook the egg. If they are overcooked, you get the dreaded green ring around the yolk—a reaction between the sulfur in the egg white and the iron in the yolk, and a sure indication that your eggs are overcooked (and stinky). Use a steamer with a tight-fitting lid. Place the eggs in a single layer in the steamer basket over gently simmering water (do not let the water boil rapidly), cover and cook for ten minutes. Turn off heat and allow to sit covered for an additional five minutes. Plunge into cold water, crack the shell and, under a stream of running cold water, peel them. Shells won’t stick, and you’ll end up with beautiful unblemished whites and no chalky yolks with grey rings around them. Also, eggs that are a week or so old are best for “hard boiling” and peeling. As they age, raw eggs become more alkaline, and this makes them easier to peel.
For “soft-boiled” eggs, use the same technique as with the hard-boiled eggs, but cook them for only five minutes, covered, and then crack and serve.
STORING EGGS
The freshness of an egg is not only determined by the date when the egg was laid, but also by the way the egg has been stored. If a freshly laid egg is left at room temperature for a full day, it will not be as fresh as a week-old egg that has been refrigerated between 33°F and 40°F from the time it was laid. According to the USDA: Many eggs reach stores only a few days after the hen lays them. Egg cartons with the USDA grade shield on them, indicating they came from a USDA-inspected plant, must display the “pack date” (the day that the eggs were washed, graded, and placed in the carton). The number is a three-digit code that represents the consecutive day of the year (the “Julian Date”) starting with January 1 as 001 and ending with December 31 as 365. Though not required, most egg cartons also contain a “sell-by” date beyond which they should not be sold. In USDA inspected plants (indicated by the USDA shield on the package), this date can’t exceed thirty days beyond the pack date, which is within USDA regulations. Always purchase eggs before their sell-by date.
HOW LONG ARE EGGS GOOD AFTER THE SELL-BY DATE?
Refrigerated raw shell eggs will keep without significant quality loss for about 5 weeks beyond the pack date or about four weeks after you bring them home. An obvious rule to follow is that any egg that looks or smells odd should not be used. If an egg is bad, you will know it. Just crack each egg in a small bowl and smell it—your nose will tell you!
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO STORE EGGS?
Buy refrigerated eggs and store them in the refrigerator as soon as you get home. Eggs should be stored in the refrigerator in their carton to help protect them from absorbing odors and also to help prevent them from drying out and keep them fresh longer. The shell is a porous membrane, and even under refrigeration, eggs slowly lose carbon dioxide, which enlarges the size of the air cell and causes the yolk to flatten and the white to spread. Finally, store your eggs on the middle or lower shelves, where the temperature is more constant. The door is the worst place to store eggs because the temperature varies widely when the door is opened and closed.
CONCERNS EATING RAW OR SOFT COOKED EGGS
The American Egg Board warns against consuming raw or lightly cooked eggs on the grounds that the egg may be contaminated with Salmonella (despite what Rocky did). The risk is greater for those who are pregnant, elderly, or very young and those with medical problems that have impaired their immune systems. Use only properly refrigerated, clean, unbroken, fresh, grade AA or A eggs. Refrigerate any broken eggs, prepared egg dishes, and other foods if you won’t be consuming them within an hour. For summer outings, don’t let your egg dishes sit out for very long. Use beds of ice or coolers to keep cold foods cold (40ºF or lower. Eggnog and homemade ice cream should be based on pasteurized custard to ensure safety. A possible solution for concerns about eating raw or undercooked eggs is the process of pasteurizing eggs right in their shell. Using a patented process, a company called National Pasteurized Eggs Inc. produces pasteurized eggs under the Safest Choice brand, www. safeeggs.com. They accomplish this by using a highly controlled time and hot water process. Liquid pasteurized eggs such as Egg Beaters are another option. Though we are not endorsing either product, it is a solution if you are concerned.
THE PERFECT OMELETTE
No French cook has completed his or her apprenticeship until he or she can make a “perfect” omelet. It seems so easy, but timing and temperature along with a little skill make it something that benefits from practice. What you are shooting for is a moist inside (but not runny) and just barely lightly brown outside (but not dry). Auguste Escoffier described an omelet as “scrambled eggs held together in a coagulated skin.” Harold McGee puts it perfectly: “If good, scrambled eggs demand patience, a good omelet takes panache—a two- or three-egg omelet cooks in less than a minute.” Obligingly, butter bubbles as it heats. Wait until the foam is dying down, but not yet beginning to brown, before adding the eggs.
Omelets can be stuffed and topped with all kinds of delicious things, such as cheese, asparagus, crab, mushrooms— you name it, but the eggs, after all, are the stars. The toppings and stuffings are there to support the silky skin holding billowy curds together. My favorite topping for an omelet is crème fraîche and caviar, whatever you can afford.
Perhaps the most famous and popular omelet in France is one called omelet aux fines herbes. It is flavored simply with freshly chopped herbs. Dried herbs are no substitute. If all those listed below are not available, use what you like. The technique described below is the same for all omelets.
Makes 1 serving
2 or 3 large organic eggs, at room temperature salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon butter
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
1 teaspoon finely sliced chives
Break the eggs into a small bowl, add the salt and pepper and whisk with a fork until well beaten.
Heat an 8-inch nonstick sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter and swirl to melt. Pour in the eggs and swirl them in the pan for 5 to 10 seconds, until they are just beginning to set on the bottom. gently stir the egg mixture, shaking the pan all the while, with a heat-resistant rubber spatula (as if you were going to make scrambled eggs) until very soft curds appear. Swirl the eggs in the pan to make a nice round. Reduce the heat to low to avoid browning. Continue cooking for another 30 seconds or so. The eggs will be set on the bottom, but slightly liquid on top.
Remove the pan from the heat and fold the omelet in half while tilting the pan. Add the herbs (or other fillings), then roll the omelet over itself completely. There are lots of ways to fold an omelet but the simplest way is to add the filling, fold in half and slide out onto a warm plate or serving platter. Classically, if you are using a filling, you make an incision down the whole length with a knife tip to expose a little of the filling and brush it with a little melted butter—sort of gilding the lily!
Spinach and Feta variation: Rinse and steam 3 cups of baby spinach. Squeeze out the moisture and chop. Mix the spinach with 2 tablespoons of mixed herbs (such as dill, parsley, and mint) and 3 tablespoons of drained and crumbled feta cheese. Cook the omelet according to the directions above using the filling here.
CHILAQUILES
Chilaquiles are a classic Mexican recipe that is eaten any time of day. You can add whatever else you want to the mix, such as cooked and crumbled chorizo or other sausage, shredded cooked turkey or chicken, or sautéed sliced mushrooms. If you don’t have tortillas, a couple of big handfuls of tortilla or corn chips work as well.
Makes 4 servings
Vegetable oil
6-day-old corn tortillas, cut into strips
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 small white onion, peeled and thinly sliced, about 1 cup
1 medium poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
8 large eggs, beaten with a tablespoon or so of water or milk
2 to 3 drops of your favorite hot sauce (optional)
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 1/2 to 2 cups Pico de Gallo (recipe follows) or tomatillo sauce
1/4 to 1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco or Mexican Crema
Add 1/4 inch of oil to a heavy skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the tortilla strips and toss with salt and pepper to taste. Continue stirring until the tortilla strips crisp, about 2 minutes. At first, they’ll soften and then crisp. Set aside and drain on paper towels. Wipe out skillet with paper towels. (Alternately, you can lightly spray the strips with vegetable oil and bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 10 minutes or so or until crisp.)
Add 2 tablespoons of oil to the pan. Sauté the onions and poblanos over medium heat until just beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Stir in the eggs and reserved tortilla strips and cook, stirring, until the eggs are softly scrambled. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper and hot sauce, if using. Stir in the cilantro. Divide among 4 warm plates and top with salsa and queso fresco or a drizzle of crema or sour cream.
Pico de Gallo
Pico de gallo is a classic fresh salsa in Tex-Mex cooking. It translates to “beak of the rooster” because in Mexico, fresh, chunky salsas are often eaten with the forefinger and the thumb that mimics the pecking action of a roster.
Makes about 11/4 cups
3/4 pound (2 medium) seeded and diced ripe tomatoes
1/3 cup diced red onion
1 teaspoon minced, seeded serrano chile, or to taste
1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
Drops of lime or lemon juice to taste
Pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients and allow flavors to blend for at least 30 minutes before using. Store covered in refrigerator. For the best flavor, eat within 3 days, but it can be stored for as long as 5. Can be easily multiplied.
CLASSIC EGGS BENEDICT
Typically served at brunch (especially on Mother’s Day in American restaurants) or breakfast, there are many variations on the theme. Classic Eggs Benedict takes two toasted English muffin halves, tops each with a slice of Canadian bacon, a poached egg, and a big spoonful of hollandaise sauce. According to The Food Lover’s Companion by Sharon Tyler Herbst (Barron’s, 1995), the dish originated at Manhattan’s famous Delmonico’s Restaurant when regular patrons, Mr. and Mrs. LeGrand Benedict, complained that there was nothing new on the lunch menu.
Makes 4 servings
Hollandaise sauce:
4 egg yolks
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional)
12 tablespoons (1-1/2 sticks) butter, melted
Pinch of cayenne pepper or drops of hot sauce to taste
Salt to taste
Eggs:
8 large eggs
2 teaspoons vinegar
4 English muffins, split in half
2 tablespoons butter, softened
8 thick slices Canadian bacon
Paprika for garnish (optional)
Finely chopped chives for garnish (optional)
Make the hollandaise sauce: with a double boiler or a metal bowl placed over (but not in) barely simmering water, whisk the yolks, lemon juice and optional mustard together. Gradually whisk in the butter, adding in a small stream until the sauce is thickened. If it is too thick, whisk drops of hot water to thin it out. Whisk in cayenne and salt to taste. Keep warm. If the sauce curdles or “breaks,” whisk in a tablespoon of cold water or put another egg yolk in a bowl and very slowly whisk in the broken sauce. Keep warm.
Meanwhile, poach the eggs by filling a 10- to 12- inch skillet 3/4 full with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low and add the vinegar. Break the eggs one by one and carefully slide into the water around the edge of the skillet, which will help keep the eggs together. Poach for 3 minutes or so or until the eggs are just set. You want the yolks to be runny. Alternately, you can add the eggs, turn off the heat, cover the skillet, and let them sit for 4 to 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, toast the English muffin halves and lightly spread with the butter. In another skillet, heat or fry the bacon.
To serve: Place two muffin halves on a warm plate, top each with the bacon and a poached egg and cover with the hollandaise. Garnish, if you like, with a sprinkle of paprika and some chopped chives.
EGG DROP SOUP (STRACCIATELLA)
If you’ve got a rich, good-tasting stock, one of the simplest and quickest recipes that I can think of is egg drop soup. This approach appears in the cuisines of both Asia and the Mediterranean. It’s one of those simple peasant dishes to which you can add anything on hand. I’m doing a Roman version here.
Makes 6 to 8 servings
4 eggs
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
8 cups canned or homemade chicken stock
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
4 cups lightly packed fresh young spinach, watercress, or arugula leaves, stems removed
With a fork, beat the eggs with the cheese and pepper until well mixed and set aside.
Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a deep saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium low, stir in the zest. With a large spoon gently swirl the soup in a circle. Gradually pour the egg mixture into the hot soup to form little shreds.
Divide the spinach among warm bowls and spoon the soup over the top. Serve immediately.
Chinese version: Substitute a teaspoon of hot pepper sesame oil for the cheese in the eggs.
Japanese version: Add thinly sliced shiitake mushrooms to the broth and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes before stirring in the eggs. Omit the cheese from the eggs and add 2 teaspoons each of mirin and soy sauce to the eggs.
EGGS POACHED IN SPICY TOMATO SAUCE
Serves 4 to 6
Known as Shakshouka in the Middle East, it is a staple throughout Israel, Libya, Algeria and Morocco. It is often served at breakfast but can be found any time of day. Sometimes roasted peppers are added and you can also add cooked meats like lamb or chicken.
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1 small jalapeno chili, stemmed and chopped (or to taste)
1 15-ounce can garbanzos, drained and rinsed
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably fire roasted
1 cup or more chicken stock or water
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
4 - 6 eggs
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon crumbled dry mint
Warm pita, for serving
Heat oil in a heavy 12" skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions, garlic and jalapenos and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft and just beginning to brown, about 6 minutes. Add garbanzos, cumin and paprika and cook for another minute or two.
Add tomatoes and 1 cup stock; reduce heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened slightly, about 15 minutes. With a wooden spoon crush some of the beans to help thicken. Add more stock if desired. Season to your taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle feta over sauce.
Crack eggs into sauce so that eggs are evenly spaced. Cover skillet, reduce heat if sauce is bubbling too frantically and cook until whites are set but yolks are runny, 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle shakshuka with parsley and mint and serve with pita, for dipping.
Alternately eggs can be poached separately and added just before serving to heat through.
CHOCOLATE POTS DE CREME
Six 4-ounce servings
Custards are best enjoyed warm or at room temperature. They can be served on their own, or with a dollop of whipped cream and some chocolate shavings.
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
1-3/4 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup milk
2 tablespoons dark rum
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
6 large egg yolks
2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
Preheat the oven to 325ºF.
Put the chocolate in a medium bowl. Heat the cream, milk, rum, and salt in a small saucepan. When it begins to simmer, remove it from the heat and pour it over the chocolate. Whisk until smooth.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, then whisk in the sugar. Gradually add the melted chocolate mixture while whisking until well-blended. Strain the mixture into a large measuring cup or pitcher, or another bowl.
Place 6 ramekins or custard cups in a roasting pan or baking dish. Divide the custard mixture among the ramekins. Add hot water to the pan until it reaches halfway up the outside of the ramekins.
Cover snugly with foil and carefully place the pan in the oven. Bake until the custards are set around the edges but still slightly soft and jiggly when you nudge them, about 30 minutes, but check them before as ovens can vary. Remove the pan of custards from the oven and lift off the foil.
As soon as the custards are cool enough to handle, remove them from the hot water bath and place them on a cooling rack.
Serve garnished with whipped cream and chocolate shavings
Storage: The baked custards will keep in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. They can be rewarmed either in a microwave oven or by putting them in a tray of hot water and gently rewarming them in the oven, covered or uncovered.
John Ash © 2024
Photos: John Burgess, The Press Democrat
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